Welcome to our special AIFW page. This is where you’ll find the full reports of the shows we visit, the pics and interesting quotes. Scroll down for all the reports.
AIFW closing show: Bibi van der Velden’s ‘Sphere’
And so the AIFW came to an end. Tired and with our heads overflowing with fashion we watched the final show of Bibi van der Velden. But she managed to grab our attention throughout the show.
Where her last show was based on the Amazone, nature and primitive art, this was the complete opposite. The show was sponsored by Samsung. They introduced their new ladyphone last night, a silver coloured small phone cut like a gem. Enough for Bibi to build a collection around this: the theme was futuristic to the max.
The models came on the catwalk walking in a tunnel of blue lightbeams, wearing gigantic, organic, stainless steel objects in their neck and shoulders.
Other pieces were made of handblown glass or mirror-pieces, like a futuristic glinstering mask which was a remarkable piece.
We instantly found ourselves in an ‘outer’ sphere, but also recognized some inspiration from sci-fi movies and Thierry Mugler. Especially the last piece, a stainless steel harness worn by topmodel Yfke Sturm reminded us of something similar from Mugler in the 90’s.
Bibi showed she can pull it off to keep variety in her designs, and created a bridge between her jewellery and her glass and bronze sculptures with this collection. We’re curious to see how she will commercialize this collection, and are looking forward to see some of the individual pieces at the Bijenkorf.
AIFW Showreport: Replay
There was a lot to do about the Replay show, because a topmodel flew over to our cold little country to walk the catwalkshow!
No one less than Brazilian beauty Victoria’s Angel Ana Beatriz Barros. All the guys sitting next and around us fell instantly in love when she set her first step on the Replay catwalk. Can’t blame them, according to Digitalista E., who interviewed Ana Beatriz for Glamour before the show, she is nice too!
Besides Ana Beatriz, a Dutch upcoming model, Bregje Heinen also walked for Replay. And we can say she really fitted in the New Grunge theme of the collection, with her slightly ‘grungy’ look.
Thus the collection was inspired by Seattle, the origin of the grunge, and its headman, Kurt Cobain. We saw sexy patchwork micro-dresses en superstretched stonewashed skinny jeans combined with heavy patterned knits. The boys wore a new straight leg modelled jeans, used or black denim, checked shirts, also heavy knitted sweaters or cardigans, leather jackets and chunky boots.
A nice winter look, easy and comfortable to wear for rockchicks like me, but a very predictable look. Like a wrote in an article on Nu.nl, these commercial show are interesting for the retailers, so it’s all about the entertainment factor. And we’ve got that for sure!
AIFW Show Report: EnD by Eva and Delia
There are some shows during Amsterdam Fashion Week I always look forward t0. Claes Iversen and Jan Taminiau for example, but also EnD by Eva and Delia. Two young girls with a great sense of style. They’ve really got their own signature, but bring something new each season.
Most dresses and skirts that hit the runway are not wearable for most of the women in Holland. We’ve got hips and ankles so we’d look like idiots if we squeeze ourselves in too skinny things. The collections EnD designs, are different. They make dresses that look great on every woman and amazing well cut pants that flatter every bum.
The AW10 collection was inspired by Hollywood’s black and white crime cinema from the early 1940’s to the late 1950’s. Think cunningly chic, deadly feminine and fearlessly dramatic. With smoking models on the runway, black lips and dimmed lamps.
Key-items? The oversized double-breasted blazer with big shoulders, puffy knitwear sweater dresses made by the grandmothers of Eva and Delia (how cool is that?!) and black dresses and jumpsuits with playful cuttings and beautiful draperies. Very Film Noir, very dark glamour. We think every woman should become a femme fatale next autumn…We do. Grrraaaauuw!!!
AIFW Showreport: Supertrash
Wow, what a lot of people! It looks like Olcay Gulsen is a real star! The last year her label Supertrash went from a regular brand to a super brand. Not that the clothes are very different, no, only the image got a huge injection thanks to a supersonic pr/marketing machine. Last year Olcay had an amazing stunt by putting supermodel Janice Dickenson front-row, this year she asked Alexandra Richards to fly over to Holland. Yes, the daughter of rolling stone rock star Keith Richards.
Super trash is a well-known retail brand, which they sell in a lot of stores all around the world. So it’s not like a creative designers brand with a lot of new stuff. The collections of Supertrash are wearable, commercial and nice for women all around the world. The brand translates international catwalk trends to nice items which everybody can afford .
What we saw? A lot of cute little dresses in all kinds of colours with prints of roses and golden accents. Olcay paid a lot of attention to the shoulders and sleeves. Think puffy and layered sleeves and pointy shoulders. She gave her collection a little glamour by using sequins on black harem trousers and dresses.
To spice up the show a little bit, she hired an ex-idol candidate for a private concert on the catwalk while the sexy models passed by. Our thoughts about the collection? Cute and trendy (hate that word, yek) items every woman wants to have in her closet. From casual to chic and sexy to modern. Not spectacular, but nice enough to mention.
AIFW showreport: Claes Iversen
What can I say, Claes Iversen is by far my favorite. Every fashionweek I’ve seen his shows, he made me want to give him standing ovations (it happened several times). I am always impressed by his ability to translate his ideas into these ‘chic’ garments. A few seasons ago he had a collection where he used car safety belts -imagine that looking stylish on anyone- but he makes it work.
And yet, Claes had a rough year. The storage where all his previous collections were stored, burnt down and destroyed all of his work. A terrible thing, but his new collection reflected a lot of positivity, he did not let the events influence his work.
What does influence each of his collections, is his own growth as a designer. As he feels his own transformation into professional maturity steadily progressing, the urge to cling to his inner child with its pure and unselfconcious ability to explore and enjoy, is causing duality.
This same duality came to expression in a collection named ‘La petite Femme’. The intersection when a girl turns into a woman, translated in exquisite pieces like a bias-cut dress, partially sheer organza continues into solid wool. Or a bordeaux coat where the apricot ruffled silk organza (ghazar) dress continues in the interlining of the coat. This same material was used by 60’s designer Courrèges to simulate the stiff effect of his designs. The remarkebly embroided pieces- execessive bouquets mixing coral and crystal beads with silk flowers- captured the playfulness of a little girl.
Ofcourse this show had to close with a bride. A surprising one, with a little reference to his Post-it theme of last season. The crispy white dress and the model’s face were covered by pearls and small price-tags.
Show Report: Camilla Norrback
Forget Milan, Paris and New York! The new fashion hotspot is Scandinavia. Lately one after the other cool Scandinavian fashion brands pops up. Yesterday night the Swedish designer Camilla Norrback showed her collection during Amsterdam Fashion Week. It was a little fairytale come true!
Clean, simple, comfortable and sophisticated; that is Camilla Norrback. Her collection is, just like all the other Northern-European brands, a little minimalistic but fun at the same time.
The collection was inspired by the two fairytale characters Veruca and Charlie visiting Willy Wonka’s Chocolate factory. ”The spoiled Veruca and her childish ladylike appearance is a complete opposite to the destitute look and worn rags of Charlie. During the fall winter 2010 Veruca and Charlie find each other and create a playful yet stylish collection with rough and melancholic elements.”
To be honest, we saw more little boarding school girls and boys in it, who got lost in the woods of Sweden. The models looked so sweet and innocent with their ‘bow’ dresses, puffy sleeves , accentuated shoulders and long warm cardigans. The designs had floral prints, stripes and bows on it and came in orange, navyblue, beige and different shades of brown.
The male models wore high waist pants of wool and had rolled up legs. Very British! To give the collection a ‘nature’ look, Camilla used funny prints of donkey’s and squirrels on scarf’s and on the backside of cardigans.
The materials had a natural look&feel as well. She is the woman who came-up with eco-luxe and the collection was only made of warm en comfortable organic materials. The ability to combine high fashion with an environmental- and human friendly way of producing is very important for Camilla.
Feminine silhouettes seem to be key this Fashionweek. Another brand that embraced the female body was Individuals. The brand that is managed by AMFI students has really evolved over the years, and each season it’s a surprise to see what they come up with.
This time it was less avantgarde, but that could be a good thing to earn international attention, or who knows even international selling points. The designs we saw on the catwalk would not be misplaced, at let’s say, Bergdorf Goodman or Harvey Nichols for that matter.
The Winter 2010 collection is named ‘The Porcelain Papillon’, but what we saw was opposite of something as fragile as a butterfly. Inspired on the 40’s and 50’s the silhouettes were strong and bodyconcious. Tailored suits with high waisted trousers or pencilskirts, silk semi see-through jumpsuits with a leopardprint, floaty champagne silk tops and blouses combined with black satin knickers and over the knee black stockings…all sensual yet powerful. We could imagine Marlene Dietrich wear some of the items.
Some modernity was caught in the leggings with subtile woven details on the side, heavy knitted scarves or the material where some of the coats and suits were made from, and looked like ‘pointillage’ from a distance.
But it also had a typical ‘Parisienne’ feel to it, thanks to the styling and hair&make-up. The models wore their hair wavy like in the forties, and had carmin red pouty lips and strong black eyeliner. Overall you could say the show aspired to the classics of Chanel or Dior. The leather flower- and butterfly applications reminded us of the first one, and the ruby sharp tailored dress was a little deja-vu of the Dior A/W ’08-’09 collection. Nothing wrong with that, it means the Individuals designers know their classics.
The butterfly symbolises transformation, and Individuals has come to maturity.
The mix of special materials makes the collection exciting, with diving gear/ foam rubber, soft leather and silk.
Elsien about her collection:
“For autumn/winter 2010 I’ve found my inspiration in the following phrase: ‘Time exists, otherwise everything would happen at the same moment.’ The transitoriness of a collection and on the other hand a timeless design. Simplicity is the key element: round shaped and sharp-edged, androgynous and feminine, tough and vulnerable, I love these contradictions.”
A designer to watch!
AIFW Opening Night: Showreport Mattijs van Bergen
Part two of the opening soiree of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week was for young Dutch talent Mattijs. The expectations were high. Showing at the first night of AIFW after the talented Jan Taminiau, is not something every designer can and may do.
I always like to watch a show without knowing what the idea behind the collection is. I like to discover my own interpretation and thoughts. What was the designer thinking when he was sketching in his atelier? Most of the time, my ideas are a whole different then the ideas of the designer, but that makes fashion fun! Mattijs’ inspiration: Phoenix. Think forties chic en feminine with a twinkle of Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth.
I understood his collection, but I didn’t see that much Marilyn Monroe. It was a little less explosive and more chic on the 2010 way. I saw a strong, independent woman in it. New York business ladies with en touch of Parisian en Milan fashion.
Mattijs opened the show with black, gold and copper. Think pleated little black dresses and wool dresses. Cute, but not that impressive. He got my attention more with all the bright colours, ruffled and voluminous shoulders and furry skirts, marabou feathers and pleated short jackets in old pink and copper belts. I especially liked the hint of green. Elle Editor-in-Chief Cecile Narinx seemed to like it too. She was wearing green herself.
Yes, the overall look of the show was good. Strong, feminine, sexy and very globalistic (think digitalistic!) Some pieces really stood-out, while other pieces were a little less strong, unfortunately. But, besides that, he showed the Dutch audience again that he has got a lot of potential.
At the end of the night we heard that the buyers of Harvey Nichols were at the show so we really hope that they will help Mattijs with his own fashion emporium! Like Harrods did with Iris van Herpen….Yes, we’re proud of our own Dutch talents!
Ps: This is a ps to myself. Don’t cover the second show of the evening when drinking bubbles in between the shows, it’s not a very good idea to write a serious article. Aaaaah!
AIFW Opening Night: Showreport Jan Taminiau
Dutch designer Jan Taminiau did an online show last season, but now he’s back on the Amsterdam catwalk. We’re sitting in the bloggers area again, like we did at Hans Ubbink, to keep you updated about the show as quickly as possible.
The venue is extremely crowded, people are even sitting on the floor. Nobody wants to miss out!
Jan Taminiau is what you may call a ‘couturier’. His creations are somptueus dresses, that make woman feel like a princess. Using beautiful materials like tulle, silk and sometimes even vintage postbags (he did the postbags in previous collections).
But back on track, the show has started and the first models are wearing gold sequined dresses, that make us think of the dress Emma Watson wore from Burberry. Also a padded short jumpsuit with glittery trims. The models are wearing spacy shoes with the heel incorporated in the platform sole. They could have been Alexander McQueen shoes.
As the show proceeds we see big pleated applications, and the lovely sequined items continue to blind us, such craftmanship!
It’s all about the detailling, and a hint to greek godesses, with biais cuts and drapings. Volumes are mostly used on the collars, yet functional. Not something from which you think: ‘what the hell is THAT doing there.’ The marvel ends with a spectacular egg-shell mermaid dress, made of sequins and lucsious waves of satin. Wow! (you can see a pic of that one in the teaser)